The thick, cream coloured beach has been allowed to flow around the island from season to season as it has always done. The only intervention is temporary sandbagging at the last possible moment. There are no groynes or lagoon walls and this is increasing rare. This is still a picture perfect island. Yet unfortunately the great sunset-facing beach in front of the beach bar was shifted by a storm and now sits in front of the main bar and lounge. The upside is that this works well for a volleyball court and seats spilling out from the lounge.

The housereef is accessible from the beach everywhere at high tide and via a cut through on either side of the island at other times. The coral growth is good at the reef edge and amongst the best of all resorts in the lagoon, with landscapes of coral running almost up to the beach in places, making for delightful snorkeling. The fish life is not so impressive but the 30 to 40 barracudas on one corner certainly are.

The island itself is a rare mix of untouched, lush vegetation and areas of tamed nature. A sandy path in front of the rooms is shaded by bowers of bougainvillea, mature palms and more than one very fine banyan tree; while a garden marks the crossing of the 2 interior paths. The standard of gardening upkeep, it has to be said though, is not what it was. Then again, the great stands of tall palms are enduringly special.

The 56 individual bungalows are solidly made of coral and reasonably decorated inside and out, although the upgrading will make a big difference. They are perhaps not as big as they look from outside (with their overhanging thatch) but there is plenty of space for dressing and sitting areas. There is a big tv but no complimentary water or tea and coffee. The bathroom is due a major upgrade as it now appears small and dark compared to many resort bathrooms these days.

The restaurant, bar and reception are sensibly joined together in one area. The bar is the least attractive part for me: simple cane chairs sit on a tiled floor with patches of circular straw mats. The restaurant too looks a little old-fashioned but the hubbub at mealtimes tells me the clientele are fairly content. The food is good for a 3 star resort but not what might be expected from a self-proclaimed 4 star plus resort.

The truth is the standard of service has noticeably gone down. Senior managers are not visible and the once attentive, caring and well-trained staff are no longer so. This is of course a great shame but far from irreversible. It could be I got unlucky, that most guests have very positive experiences and a new sharpness will come with the upgrading.

This was predominantly an Italian resort, with Italian food and Italian entertainment. It now hosts a mix of nationalities. The dinner cuisine is still influenced by the Italian past, with 2 pasta options every evening but the games and entertainment have gone. This is now a quiet resort, which is great for those guests looking for just that. The bar is very quiet in the evenings and the excursions are not much taken up. Even the lovely little spa by the water’s edge is infrequently used.

If I have been rather harsh on Madoogali it is only because I like it so much it is disappointing to see it slip down the league table. I will return as soon as I hear of improvements and look to promote it strongly once more.