The beach rooms now have large French windows opening out fully to sun-bleached wooden decks and the cream-coloured sand beyond. The inside-outside life is encouraged with a comfy sofa and chairs on the deck, coupled with mattressed sun-loungers and a hammock on the beach. Access is from a path inside the island not from the deck, so guests are no longer constantly passing in front of your room.

Inside, large mirrors expand the lightness and size of the moderately proportioned rooms. The furniture is of pale wood and wicker, the decorative elements are rustic and the bed cover, cushions and wall prints are olive green and other rich tropical colours. A treat yourself minibar, iPod dock, internet and cotton robes add a welcome flourish. The bathroom is bright too, with a small outdoor garden with shower and neat quality fittings. Again it is not large and there is but one basin, though the bath is large and the shower separate.

The Superior Charm Beach Villas are 58m² and the Deluxe Delight Beach Villas are 66m², whereas the Premium Indulgence Water Villas are 85m². These are very nice rooms. Though essentially the same as the beach rooms for decoration and facilities, the extra space and glass wall with wide lagoon views give them a special edge. The views are not quite uninterrupted, though, as there are lagoon walls all around this half of the island.

Snorkeling is not recommended from the water villas, unless you are a confident swimmer, because of occasionally strong currents coming into and out of the atoll on this side. However quite a number of coral frames are creating interesting snorkeling inside the lagoon here. Snorkeling from the end of the jetty is not extensive but is pretty good and there is the wreck on the reef (15-22m) which is a big bonus. Twice a day there is a snorkeling excursion to a reef just 10 minutes away by speed boat.

Guests come on all types of packages from bed and breakfast to all-inclusive, and yet there is not a buffet in sight. Every meal, including breakfast, is à la carte and guests order as many dishes off the prepared menu as they wish, as often as they wish. And the cuisine really is the forte of this resort.

The main restaurant is called Latitude and specialises in delectable dishes from around the Indian Ocean and across Asia. The specialty restaurant (chargeable even for all-inclusive) is called Open – The Grill and serves up Wagyu beef the likes of which is unbeaten across the Maldives. Here too the specialist teppanyaki and sushi chef delivers memorable dinners al fresco overlooking the lagoon and swimming pool. And for your new experience and anecdote, Vivanta has a salt master to guide you through the sharp pleasures of Pink Himalayan, Red Hawaiian, Peruvian Maras and others. You might combine your favourite with Vivanta’s collection of tequilas.

The Reef Bar prides itself on its tequilas, its cocktails and its range of single malt whiskeys. This is all very impressive and enjoyable but sadly the bar itself doesn’t work as a venue. Perhaps it will get a reworking because it is not a place to chill. Guests need to share the long, upright, cushion benches along the 3 sides, surrounding stiffish chairs in the middle. A television is high up and constantly on but mute. The music is loud but middle of the road instrumental covers. The third side leads out to a deck and this is fine, but still not truly relaxing.

The public area is usually active and buzzing. Quiet time can be had along the beach, which goes most of the way around the island not taken by the water villas. The sand and the swimming is very good and snorkeling is nearby. And the complimentary fruit skewers and ice shots offered to you just when you need it can make your day.

The transfer from the airport is by speedboat so any late arrivals can get to the resort directly (the seaplanes do not fly after 6pm). Partly for this reason – and partly for the deserved reputation of the Taj hotels – some 50% of the guests here are Japanese, Chinese and Korean.