This corner of Baa Atoll has a number of very fine resorts (Soneva Fushi, Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru, Anantara Kihavah). They all share a commitment to environmental, social and business best practise, through the seminal Baa Atoll Association. A significant part of this concerns the newly instituted UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve of Hanifaru Huraa, the phenomenal feeding ground for whale sharks and manta rays. Not only are the dive sites excellent and varied but the inhabited islands in the neighbourhood are some of the most interesting too.
The island itself (Muhdhoo) has soil that is unusually rich. The interior is full of mature palms and species of indigenous trees and plants, some of which are rarely found on other islands. This has been cut back to provide paths through, dusted with fine white sand. The beach is lovely and fine and goes all the way around the island, unpumped and uninterrupted by any groynes or walls. This might not last forever but its a wonder to behold right now. The housereef is accessible from every room as it hugs close to the shoreline and then out just beyond the water villas.
The corals on the reef are healthy in places and quite poor in other areas. This will have a lot to do with the extended period of building which has only recently been completed. You can expect the reef to come back strongly now it is no longer stressed. The fish life is good to very good, with a remarkable number of juveniles. On one snorkel I counted juvenile blue fin jacks, barracudas, oriental sweetlips, turtle and, most amazingly of all in an atoll renowned for its lack of sharks, a juvenile grey reef shark right below me resting on the reef. A housereef dive revealed innumerable damsel and butterfly fish, several moray species and a large school of huge red snappers (as well as the biggest sea cucumber I’ve ever seen). The dive school, which also runs the watersports, is a very good outfit of committed and friendly experts.
If the island is good for divers (and snorkeling over Hanifaru), it is also good for families. 10 of the Beach Villas are paired to create 2 bedrooms. Where the 2 rooms are taken, the second room has a 50% discount. For no extra charge 2 children
can share the one room with their parents. A kid’s club and baby sitting is also provided. One thing families with small children should be aware of, though, is the short distance from the shore to the reef drop-off.
Romantic couples remain the mainstay of the clientele. Special packages are offered for honeymooners and for renewal of vows ceremonies. Most of the guests come from Germany, Switzerland, UK and Russia, with a number from the Middle East too and not so many from East Asia.
The beach villas have good views and access to a private section of lovely beach. Some of them are set back a little for extra privacy and a little garden. The Lagoon Villas are just a few metres away from the shore but you feel separated when you sunbathe on your deck listening to the lapping waves or play in your small pool resting right over the housereef drop-off. The Ocean Villas are fine big spaces with high ceilings. Like all the rooms, the decoration is not fussy but exudes a subtle and relaxing quality, from the large flatscreen with internet to the iPod socket and Bose speakers to the Molten Brown amenities.
The resort operates a dine-around policy where guests can eat at any of the 3 restaurants, including the superb, overwater signature Thai restaurant, Benjarong, at no extra charge. The Market is perfect for lunches around the pool, looking out to the startling turquoise and blues. The Sea Grill is for fine seafood and steaks by the water’s edge. And everywhere you are met with the traditional Thai greeting and served with endless smiles.