Not a single groyne breaks up the beach and no sea walls impede the view. The west side is nonetheless preferable for its width and softness. The east side looks out to the ocean and the beach is narrower and a little less fine. The southern and northern tips of the island alternate a big bulge of fine sand as the 2 seasons drive it from one end to the other. It’s a rare island now that leaves the beach to nature’s course.

The vast, empty lagoon is perfect for swimming and for watersports. The wind cuts across at an ideal angle to sail catamarans and windsurfers up and down. There’s plenty of protected water too for waterskiing, wakeboarding and kitesurfing. The centre does regular catamaran excursions to nearby islands and to Kuredu for the snorkeling. A big bonus is the frequent sighting of dolphins, and occasionally pilot whales, in Llaviyani Atoll.

The downside of such a lagoon is the absence of housereef snorkeling. To compensate, the dive base runs guided trips every day to several good local spots, the most fascinating of which is ‘The Shipyard’, where 2 wrecks are located, one partly above the waterline. Wolle, the dive base leader, describes it as the best wreck site in the country.

Though the diving setup is excellent, it is the spa complex that takes centre stage on Kanuhura. The prominence of the large and attractive thatched building seems to set the resort’s priorities, inviting you to use it daily as an integral part of your holiday. The interior of the spa, though, doesn’t quite fulfill the promise of the entrance. It has all the facilities one could wish for but the setting and the 8 smallish treatment rooms are more straight-lined and formal than open-aired, soft and natural. That is not to take anything away from the very experienced masseuses.

In the same building is a very busy beauty salon, a gym and an aerobics room. These are as central to the resort as the spa itself, with a full weekly schedule of complimentary classes from Pilates and Yogacise to Power Stretch, Absolute Abs and Aero Combo. Kanuhura is really into the whole family, with something for everyone to be doing.

A company policy of the owners is being child friendly and so it is here. An active Kids’ Club runs all the day, while trained babysitters can care for smaller children. No other resort offers swimming lessons for children, or treasure hunts or lessons about the reef, the stars and local crafts. Understandably, the resort entertains a lot of children, particularily in the school holidays.

Often, there is an over-demand for the 5 Beach Villa Duplexes, which have a double bedroom with a twin bedroom interconnected. 2 Grand Beach Villas could also be used for families. The other rooms are 68 Beach Villas, 18 Water Villas and 2 Grand Water Villas. Compared with resorts of a similar category, the beach villas are maybe on the small side, but attractive decor compensates for where a metre or two of space is lost. The water villas are just a little wider than the beach villas. They and the grand beach villas are on the east side but the most popular rooms are on the west side, with the advantages of sunset, a finer beach and better foliage in between the rooms.

Dining is an unadulterated pleasure here. The venues, the choice and the quality are excellent. Half board guests may choose between all 3 restaurants: Olive Tree, a classic and classy Mediterranean taverna; Velhi Café, offering seafood, meat and live cooking on the northern tip overlooking the water, a beautifully romantic place in the evening; and Thin Rah, the main restaurant. This serves up outstanding buffets, with perhaps the best breakfast buffet anywhere. One example is the choice of jams, with blood orange marmalade, quince preserve, lemon curd, 2 honeys and, it seemed, every veri veri berry!

There is also the option to dine at Kandu, set on a small island of its own, a short boat ride away. This transports the upmarket grill concept to the casual setting of the sands of Jehunuhura Island. Fresh, locally-caught fish is one of the highlights of the menu. This island also hosts guest picnics and weddings, but after 6pm one couple can book the entire island to themselves for a romantic dinner, illuminated by hundreds of candles.

Kanuhura offers something for everybody, great food and tip top service. However, the mix of clientele and differences in ages, attitudes and expectations, seemed to me to just miss clicking as a single resort. Otherwise it’s one of the best.